Unit 2　Textile Yarns（纺织纱线）

TextiIe Yarns and Their Structure and Characteristics

（纺织纱线及其结构特征）

Yarns are a continuous strong and flexible strand of textile fibers aligned along the lengthwise di-rection with or without twists and are used for further processing into textile fabrics. Although a few types of textile products, such as felt and nonwoven fabrics, are made directly from fibers, most tex-tiles used by us are made with yarns.Yarns can be made from short/staple fibers, filament fibers, or a combination of both.If filament fibers are used, the yarns may be either multifilament, composed of several filaments, or monofilament, composed of a single filament.The staple fibers can be natural fi-bers（such as wool, linen, cotton and silk fibers that have been cut into short length, etc.）or chemi-cal fibers.Single yarns made from staple fibers are usually twisted together to form an even stronger yarn, called ply/plied yarn.If both staple and filament yarns are used, they are usually combined by following processing to produce modern yarns, or are plied to form plied yarns with special character-istics.Different processing methods and fibers used result in a great variety of yarns.The classifica-tion methods and names of yarns vary greatly.Tab.1.2 is the classification of yarns.Tab.1.3 shows some kinds of fancy yarns.

Tab. 1.2　CIassification of yarns

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Tab. 1.3　Some kinds of fancy yarns

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The characteristics and quality of yarns can affect the appearance, maintenance, durability, and other properties of the fabrics that are made from them. Yarn properties are listed in Tab.1.4.Yarn quality can be classified by the following parameters：

Tenacity（单纱断裂强度）；Coefficient of variance of tensile strength（CV%）（单强变异系数）；CV%of weight（重量变异系数）；CV%of evenness and black board（条干变异系数，黑板条干均匀度）；Neps（棉结粒数）；Neps and impurities（棉结杂质粒数）；Twist factors（实际捻系数）；Yarn defects（纱疵）。

Tab. 1.4　Yarn properties

The fineness of filament yarns is always expressed by the denier system, and the specification of filament yarns is always described as the yarn size/the number of filaments the yarn contains/the twist. For example, a 200-72-1/2Z filament indicates a yarn of 200 D in size, containing 72 fila-ments with 1/2 TPI of Z twist.Each filament fiber in this yarn would be 2.8 D.The fineness of spun yarns is always expressed by the tex system or the two count systems.For single yarns, for example, a 14 tex yarn can also be written as a 42.2syarn.For ply yarns, they are always described as"the tex of the single yarn×the number of single yarns the ply yarn contains"or"the count of the single yarn/the number of single yarns the ply yarn contains".For example, a 14 tex×2（42.2s/2）ply yarn means 2 yarns of 14 tex（42.2s）each have been twisted together.The thickness of the resulting ply yarn is about twice that of the original single yarn, which is 28 tex（21.1s）.The expression of the fineness of spun yarns and filement yarns is shown in Fig.1.9.

Yarn Processing（纺纱工序）

1.Spun Yarn Processing

（1）Carded Yarn Processing

Carded yarn processing is generally used for producing medium yarns and coarse yarns. Proces-ses of carded yarn processing are shown in Tab.1.5.

Tab. 1.5　Carded yarn processing

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（2）Combed Yarn Processing

Combed yarn processing is generally used for producing high grade cotton yarn, special yarn, or cotton/chemical fiber blended yarn. Combed yarns are of superior evenness, smoothness, fineness and strength.Process of combed yarn processing is shown in Fig.1.10.Compared with carded yarn processing, before the drawing process, slivers from the carding unit are delivered to the lap draw frame to form the lap for the comber.The combing process will clean out remaining short fibers and impurities, and further parallel the fiber.

2.Filament Yarn Processing

Continuous filament yarns are produced by"extrusion"forcing a thick, viscous liquid through the tiny holes of a device called a spinneret（Fig. 1.11）.Process of filament yarn processing is shown in Fig.1.12.Short man-made fibers can be created if filament yarns are subsequently cut into short length.The process frequently involves crimping of the filament yarns and heat-setting of them for maintaining the crimp configuration.Thousands of the filaments are grouped to form a thick rope called tow and are then cut or broken into required length.

Vocabulary

be composed of　由……组成

characteristics　性质，特征

variety　种类，多样化

proportion　比例

aggregate　聚集，积聚

decorative　装饰的

end use　最终用途

derivative　衍生物，派生物

tension　张力

release　释放，发行，发布

strain　应变

comfort　舒适，慰藉

stoop　弯腰

be engaged in　从事于

simultaneous　同时的

be imparted to　被赋予

be susceptible to　对……敏感，易于

impurity　杂质

ribbon-like　带状

luster　光泽

denote　代表，表示

cleanliness　光洁，洁净

clockwise　顺时针方向的（地）

be designated as　被指定为

variation变化

counter clockwise　逆时针方向的（地）

automatically　自动地

specification规格，说明书

configuration　构造，构象

attenuate　使变细

Professional Vocabulary

twist　加捻，捻度

felt　毛毡

nonwoven fabric　非织造布

multifilament　复丝

monofilament　单丝

ply/plied yarn　股线

staple/spun yarn　短纤纱

filament yarn　长丝纱

woolen　粗纺的

worsted　精纺的

spin　纺纱，旋转

carded　普梳的

combed　精梳的

blend　混合

fancy yarn　花式纱线

slub yarn　竹节纱

eyelash yarn　睫毛纱

boucle yarn　圈圈纱

snarl yarn　辫子纱

ladder yarn　梯子纱

knot yarn　结子纱

spiral yarn　螺旋纱

chenille yarn　雪尼尔纱

metalic yarn　金属纱

crepe yarn　绉纱

big-belly yarn　大肚纱

crimped　卷曲的，褶皱的

flock yarn　雪花纱

stretch yarn　弹力纱

knitted　针织

woven机织

foundation garment　妇女紧身胸衣

swimsuit　泳衣

textured yarn　变形纱

dull　暗的、无光的、消光

stablished yarn　定型纱

bulked yarn　膨体纱

yarn count　纱线支数

fine yarn　细支纱

medium yarn　中支纱

coarse yarn　粗支纱

ring spun yarn　环锭纺纱线

spindle　锭子

bobbin　筒管

open-end spun yarn　自由端纺纱

rotor spun yarn　转杯纺纱线

air-vortex spun yarn　空气涡流纺纱线

friction spun yarn　摩擦纺纱线

self-twist yarn　自捻纺纱线

snag　勾丝

twistless yarn　无捻纱

elongation　断裂伸长率

air-jet spun yarn　喷气纺纱线

hand-feel　手感

core-spun yarn　包芯纱

coverspun yarn　包绕纺纱线

sirospun yarn　赛络纺纱线

hairness　毛羽

sirofil spun yarn　赛络菲尔纺纱线

solospun yarn　分束纺纱线

compact yarn　集聚纺纱线

maintenance　护理

yarn number/size　纱线细度

bale　包，棉包

opener　开棉机

blender　混棉机

picker lap　清棉棉卷

blow-card unit　清梳联

cleaning　清棉

carding　梳理

card sliver　生条

breaker drawing　头道并条

drawing　牵伸，并条

finisher drawing　末道并条

draft　牵伸

drawn sliver　熟条

roving　粗纱

flyer frame　粗纱机

spinning　纺纱，细纱

winding　卷绕，络筒

lap draw frame　条并卷机

extrusion　挤出，挤压

spinneret　喷丝头

tow　丝束

Translation Practice

1.Black T/C Covered Spandex Core Spun Yarn（Fig.1.13）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Delivery

Packaging Details：

（a）PP bag，1. 67 kg/cone，25 kg/bag with 15 cones.

（b）Carton，1. 67 kg/cone，22.68 kg/carton.

（c）As customers′requirements.

Delivery Detail：shipped in 15 days after payment.

Notes

Cone：圆锥形筒子。

2.Cotton Space Dyed Fancy Yarn（Fig.1.14）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Delivery

Packaging Details：

PP bag，1. 67 kg/cone，25 kg/bag with 15 cones.

Carton，1. 67 kg/cone，22.68 kg/carton.

As customers′requirements.

Delivery Detail：18 days within T/T payment in advance.

Notes

TPM：turns per meter of the yarn，捻度，指纱线在1m内的捻回数。

T/T：全称为Telegraphic Transfer，电汇，国际贸易货款支付方式的一种。

in advance：事先、提前。

3.Wool Blended Yarn（Fig.1.15）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Shipping

Packaging Details：

100 g/ball，5 balls/polybag，20 polybags/carton，250 cartons（2，500 kg），loaded into a 20′GP container.

50 g/ball，10 balls/polybag，20 polybags/carton，250 cartons（2，500 kg）loaded into a 20′GP container.

labels can be printed according to customers′design.

Shipping Terms：

loading port：Shanghai, Ningbo.

sample delivery：5～7 working days.

free samples.

bulk production delivery：30～50 days after sample confirmation.

Notes

Carton：纸箱。

20′GP container：即20 feet general purpose container，20英尺普通集装箱，通常称为20尺的平柜，也可写为20 feet container，体积为28立方米（cubic meter，通常缩写为CBM）。货运中还有另外一种集装箱为HQ container，即high cube container，高集装箱，通常称为高柜，如40′HQ container指40英尺的高柜。

4.Polyester 30 D/1 Monofilament Yarn for Sewing（Fig.1.16）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Delivery

Packaging Details：roll packaging with thick plastic bags inside, woven bags in bales outside.

All Labels：shipping marks can be done according to customers′requirements.

Delivery Detail：around 20 days after receiving the deposit.

Notes

Company Introduction：Shaoxing Blaza Fiber Co.，Ltd has 8 advanced polyester yarn spinning lines，15 sets of fiber drafting and stretching machines，15 sets of spandex covered yarn equipment and 50 sets of twisted covered yarn equipment. With recycled polyester as our raw material, we mainly manufacture various kinds of special polyester fiber, such as Polyester Pre-oriented Yarn（POY），Polyester Fully Drawn Yarn（FDY）and Polyester Drawn Textured Yarn（DTY）.Our product range includes 75～600 D polyester POY, FDY and DTY（NIM&HIM）for many types of dope dyed yarn, and Spandex Covered yarn（Air-jet spandex covered yarn and polyester twisted covered yarn）.

Notes

FDY：Fully Drawn Yarn，全牵伸丝。长丝一般可分为POY（Pre-Oriented Yarn，预取向丝）FDY（全拉伸丝，直的）、DTY（Drawn Textured Yarn，低弹丝，卷曲的）等三大类。POY主要用于后加工生产，如生产DTY、DY（Drawn Yarn，低速拉伸丝）、ATY（Air Textured Yarn，空气变形丝），也可以直接应用于丝绸行业。FDY主要用于服装、纺织行业。DTY是针织或机织加工的理想原料，适宜制作服装面料、床上用品及装饰用品等，其中细特丝更适合做仿丝绸织物，中粗特丝可做仿毛型织物。POY一般有两种，一种直接用于织造，另一种用于加弹，经过加工后成为DTY，规格一般有50 D、75 D、100 D、150 D等。FDY一般直接用于织造或经编，规格一般有50 D、68 D、75 D、100 D、150 D、200 D等。DTY一般直接用于织造，规格一般为75～300 D不等。

5.150　D/288 F SD SIM/HIM 100%Poyester DTY（Fig.1.17）

6.100　%Polyester DTY for Socks and Bathing Suits（Fig.1.18）

7.60　s/2，80s/2 Gassed Mercerized Combed Cotton Yarn for Knitting Sweaters（Fig.1.19）

Notes

F：filaments，表示该规格的丝具有的单丝根数，即纺丝时使用的喷丝板的孔数。

SD：semi dull，半消光，指长丝的光泽。化纤长丝的光泽分为全消光（full dull, FD）、半消光（semi-dull, SD）、生白（raw white, RW）、三角有光（bright triangle, BT）及超有光/大有光（bright white, BR）。

SIM/HIM：指的是网络丝。网络丝为化纤长丝的一种，是指丝条在网络喷嘴中，经喷射气流作用，单丝互相缠结而呈周期性网络点的长丝。网络加工多用于POY、FDY和DTY的加工，网络技术与DTY技术结合制造的低弹网络丝，既有变形丝的蓬松性和良好的弹性，又有许多周期性的网络点，提高了长丝的紧密度。网络丝分为无网（non-intermingled, NIM），即没有网络点，每米丝有0～10节；轻网（slight-intermingled, SIM），网络牢度很低，用手拉扯涤纶丝可以散开，每米丝有40～50节；重网（high-intermingled, HIM），用手拉扯涤纶丝很难散开，每米丝有100～120节。

Gass：烧毛，即将纱线或织物迅速通过火焰或炽热的金属表面，烧去表面绒毛的工艺过程。可以改善布面光泽，提高光洁度；改善抗起毛、起球性能；改善风格，使织物挺括、有身骨。

Mercerize：丝光，即用氢氧化纳溶液对纯棉或高含棉量的纱线或织物进行处理以增加其表面光泽的工艺。