6.(瑞士)真力时Zenith
品牌名片
品类:腕表
标志风格:精美绝伦、精确精准
创始人:查尔斯·维尔莫(Georges-Favre Jacot)
诞生地:瑞士
诞生时间:1865年
品牌阅读
In the 19th century in the region of Le Locle, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, numerous artisans worked in small scattered workshops or in their own homes with no particular links between them. Based on the principle that all the parts of a watch are interdependent, Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot decided to bring together the full range of watchmaking professions under one roof in 1865.This marked the birth of the frst ever Manufacture-a term to which only a few watch companies can still lay claim, since it involves in-house mastery of all stages involved in developing and producing movements.
Still located in the premises where it was founded in 1865,the Manufacture Zenith currently houses 80 professions exercised by its 250strong personnel. Whether exponents of the more artistic crafts or of ultra-technical skills, all are engaged in the task undertaken by Georges Favre-Jacot almost 150 years ago:mastering each gesture in order to enable free-spirited creation of mechanical marvels combining noble watchmaking traditions with avant-garde innovations.
From technical plans to the last polishing and through prototype-making, movement ébauches, stamping, tool-making, research on materials, decoration, assembling and casing-up, each step must be executed to perfection.This involves a blend of dexterity, patience and rigorous standards.Making a single watch in the El Primero Collection actually entails an average of nine months during which over 2,500 operations are performed by 300 pairs of expert hands.
From Blériot to Felix Baumgartner, Zenith has made its mark on the history of aviation and the discovery of space.By keeping time with the footsteps of Gandhi, the Manufacture has become part of an enduring legend.By equipping a number of explorers, it has contributed to major breakthroughs.These fabulous epics belong to the brand heritage and naturally infuence the spirit that continues to guide it.
In the years from 1930 to 1940,the Montre d'Aéronef Zenith Type 20 was fitted in many aircraft, notably the famous Caudron Simoun C635 planes used by the French air force for training purposes and by the Air Bleu postal company on its international and transatlantic routes.The years went by, and the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef of today has drawn on the lessons of the past to create a modern-day embodiment of precision and reliability, a timepiece that is able to realize the wildest of dreams.
In perpetuating the legacy of its founder, Zenith has begun the mammoth task of renovating the 19 buildings of its Manufacture-a process that was completed in 2015,its 150th anniversary year. While applying the most advanced technologies, Zenith has chosen to jealously safeguard the site's historical architecture-for it is within these red-brick walls with their large picture windows that the fnest chapters of its legend have been written and will continue to be written by many generations to come.
19世纪时,在瑞士制表业的摇篮——力洛克地区,许多工匠分散在各处的小工坊甚至在家中工作,各自为政、缺乏联系。鉴于一枚腕表的所有部件息息相关,真力时表厂的创建者乔治-法力·亚各布(Georges-Favre Jacot)在1865年决定,将制表领域所有工种集中在一起。史上第一家表厂诞生了!由于在表厂内部需要掌握设计和制造机芯的所有工序,现如今只有屈指可数的几个制表品牌才够得上“表厂”这个称号。
真力时表厂自1865年创立以来始终位于同一地区,如今表厂拥有80项专业技艺,约250位员工。从艺术技能到技术层面,工匠们仍专注于约150年前乔治-法力·亚各布先生开创的事业中,那就是:熟捻每个手法,以开放的思维,打造出传统工艺制表传统和前卫创新相结合的机械杰作。
从技术图纸到最后抛光,中间还包括打样、草图、冲模、制造工具、研究材质、装饰、组装或嵌合,每个步骤务必精益求精,这集灵巧、耐心和严谨于一身。事实上,EiPrimero系列的任何一枚腕表的制作过程平均耗时9个月,经300位专业人士之手,共有2500多道工序。
从路易斯·布雷里奥(Blériot)到菲利克斯·鲍加特纳(Felix Baumgartner),真力时在航空和航天领域的历史留下足迹。此外,品牌亦跟着圣雄甘地的脚步名留青史。真力时的钟表作品伴随许多冒险家见证人类历史的重大突破。这些传唱不辍的英雄史诗不仅是品牌历史不可分割的一部分,也是奠立真力时成长进步的重要基石。
在1930年至1940年间,真力时Type 20腕表成为众多的机载仪器,尤其是用作法国空军训练机及Air Bleu邮政公司服务国际和跨大西洋线路的Caudron Simoun C635型飞机。几度流年,而今的飞行员系列腕表从既往经验中汲取精粹,将精准度与可靠性融为一体,缔造出一款令最疯狂的梦想化为现实的卓越计时器。
真力时为延续其创立者的事业,开始大面积翻修表厂内的19幢建筑,工程于2015年表厂150周年华诞时竣工。运用最尖端技术的同时,真力时决定精心保留表厂的原有建筑。因为正是在这些红色砖墙和宽大玻璃窗内,书写了该表厂历史中最美丽的篇章,而且传奇将长久继续下去。
读书笔记
___