都市·乐活 City and Leisure
摄影:徐骋
今日西湖
The West Lake Today
2001年起,杭州市政府实施新湖滨和湖西景区建设,西湖西进,扩大了6.5平方公里。引配水工程使西湖与钱塘江沟通,每天引入钱塘江水约30万立方米,让西湖水变活。而老百姓最能感受到的是西湖变大了,走在湖滨,步行桥将西湖水扩展到路边;西湖也走不尽了,沿着复建的杨公堤西望,十万人家在那一头。
In 2001, the Hangzhou city government carried out construction works on the lakeside and West Lake Scenic Area, extending the lake further west for an expansion of 6.5 square kilometres. Water supply work was performed and the lake was connected to the Qiantang River. It now pulls in 300,000 cubic metres of water from the river each day, and now the lake water supports a living ecosystem. The most apparent effect of the expansion work on everyday people’s lives is that the lake is bigger, and taking a walk around the entire circumference of the lake, its pedestrian bridges would be a rather extended affair. The reconstructed Yang Gong Causeway affords quite a nice view.
摄影:李选
西溪湿地
The West Creek Wetlands
杭城规模不断扩大,固定人口从上世纪80年代初的100万,增加了6倍,外来人口几百万。周边的农田和蔬菜基地都变成了高楼大厦,唯独西溪湿地得以保留。西溪湿地内原本有几个村落,种桑养蚕,盛产鱼蟹,果树以柿子树为主。政府保留了西溪湿地原貌,开辟成旅游景点。真是应了宋高宗的一句话:“西溪且留下。”
Hangzhou is expanding continuously. From a population of 1 million in the early 1980’s to seven times that, millions of people have come to Hangzhou from other places. The surrounding fields and vegetable patches have been replaced by high-rise buildings, with only the West Creek Wetlands being left untouched. There are a number of villages in the area, the residents of which are involved in raising mulberry trees and silkworms, fish and crabs, and growing persimmons. The government has kept the area in its original state, and also opened it up to tourism. Just as the Gaozong Emperor of the Song Dynasty said in the 12th century, “the West Creek area shall remain as it is”.
摄影:郑若琪
娟娟饭馆
Juanjuan Restaurant
娟娟饭馆的老板是一对江山夫妇,为人勤快老实。饭馆开业多年,一直有好口碑,“杭城螺蛳王”就是饭馆的别称。老板娘娟娟认为,“食材是第一个不能马虎的地方”。他们家所用的食材,都是老板亲自挑选的,生怕客人吃到坏的。至于配菜,也是托人从江山老家采集运送过来的。很多人就是奔着叠螺蛳来吃宵夜的。
The Juanjuan Restaurant is owned by a hard-working couple from Jiangshan. It has been open for a number of years and has a great reputation. It’s also known for being the “King of Spiral Shells” in Hangzhou. The owners believe that they can’t skimp on ingredients, so they select all of them themselves, performing quality control. Even the vegetables are imported from their hometown in Jiangshan. The restaurant is a popular destination for midnight snacking.
办张公园年卡
A Yearly Park Pass
杭州的免费景点多,但有些还是要收费。对于杭州居民来说,办张40元的年卡是明智的选择。凭这张卡可以免费通行13个主要景区。如果对佛教感兴趣,还可以办张40元的庙卡。有趣的是,上海人也有权办理这两张卡。甚至有人戏称“杭州是上海人的后花园”——哪怕再不起眼的景点,你都能听到“阿拉上海人”的声音。
Hangzhou has a number of free tourist attractions, but there are some at which a ticket must be purchased. For a Hangzhou resident, spending 40 RMB for a yearly park pass is a good choice. With the card, one can enjoy free access to 13 different scenic areas. If you are interested in Buddhism, you can also spend 40 RMB to buy a Temple Pass. What’s interesting is that Shanghai residents can also obtain these two passes. People have previously remarked that “Hangzhou is Shanghai’s back garden”. You can hear people speaking Shanghainese at these attractions frequently.
爱情之都
The City of Love
世界上有“浪漫之都”“动感之都”,杭州则希望打造“爱情之都”,使“美丽杭州”充满浪漫爱意。确实!许仙白娘子在断桥相识,梁山伯祝英台于万松书院结同窗情谊,苏小小阮郁邂逅西泠桥后互结同心,还有郁达夫和王映霞,史量才与沈秋水,徐志摩并陆小曼,每一段都印证了杭州的爱情味。
Cities like Hong Kong and Paris have titles like “The City of Dynamism” and “The City of Romance”. Hangzhou seeks to be “The City of Love”, and overflow with romance and passion. In fact, when Lady Bai and Xu Xian famously met at the Broken Bridge, when Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai met at the Wansong Academy, when Su Xiaoxiao and Ruan Yu met at the Xiling Bridge, when Yu Dafu and Wang Yingxia, Shi Liangcai and Shen Qiushui, Xu Zhimo and Lu Xiaoman all met, these were the beginnings of Hangzhou love stories.
摄影:陈心远
西湖龙井
Longjing Tea
西湖龙井,中国十大名茶之一,素有“绿茶皇后”之称,色绿、香郁、味甘、形美。细雨天里,临窗而坐,沏一杯龙井,手执书卷,静听窗外游丝般的雨声,欣闻龙井轻幽幽的茶香,实在是人生一大享受。如有机会来杭州,一定要到西湖的茶坊里坐一坐,品着西湖龙井,赏着西湖美景,诗意人生不过如此。
The Longjing Tea of Hangzhou’s West Lake is one of China’s ten most famous teas, and has the nickname “The Empress of Green Teas”. The leaves are known for four qualities: being green, fragrant, sweet in taste, and beautiful in shape. Sitting by a window on an overcast day, making a cup of Longjing Tea, with a book in hand to enjoy with the tea against the background noise of light rain outside is one of the great pleasures in life. If you have the opportunity to come to Hangzhou, you must visit a tea house by the West Lake and try some Longjing Tea while enjoying a view of the lake – a slice of the poet’s life.
主编供稿
让洞于民
Into the Caves
每年夏天,杭州市都会开展“让洞于民,避暑纳凉”活动,将一些平时管制的防空洞开放给市民避暑。这项活动至今持续了13年。防空洞内一般都有桌椅、电视机、茶水。来纳凉的人多是当地的老人小孩和外来务工人员,并有保安维持秩序。据说这一惠民活动每年能节电80万度左右。
Every year in summer, Hangzhou puts on an activity called “Into the caves to avoid the heat”. The city opens up a number of underground air raid shelters which are normally closed. It’s already been going on for 13 years. Within the shelters there are tables, chairs, TV, and tea. Most of the people that come are elderly, children, or workers from other regions of China. There are security guards to maintain order. Apparently, these activities save 800,000 KWh of electricity that would otherwise be spent on AC each year.
问路
Asking for Direction
到武林门会同学,查了地图却也坐错了车,懒得再查,就问一美女。“可以百度的,”她说。但并不等我自己搜,拿出手机搜了,然后带我过去,到了路口她说朝前走就是了,还担心地看着我,唯恐我不明白。这种礼遇,已不是第一次。若是碰到赋闲的老年人,他们甚至会带你过去。杭州景美,人心更美啊!
On my way to Wulinmen to meet classmates, I checked the map and saw that I’d taken the wrong route. I didn’t feel like rechecking, so I asked a pretty girl. She said I could look it up on my phone, but didn’t wait for me to do so. She took her phone, found the place for me and then took me there, pointing me down a road in front and saying that it was right up there. She looked at me worriedly, afraid I hadn’t understood. This wasn’t my first time receiving this kind of treatment. If you ask an elderly person with free time, you’ll almost always be escorted part of the way. Hangzhou is a nice place and the people are nice, too!
小吃街夫妻档
Husband-and-Wife Snack Street
宿舍后面有一条小吃街,里面有大大小小的各种小吃和饭店。每次过来吃饭,总能看到夫妻档:鸡蛋灌饼的河南老夫妇,总是夸他家的鸡蛋饼独门秘制,无人能比;二层小阁楼的胖哥夫妻面馆,每每过去总是座无虚席;一胖一瘦夫妻的水果摊,推销的水果总是那么讨人喜……幸福就是简简单单一起相伴的日子。
Behind the dormitory there is a snack street, upon which there are all kinds of snack shops and restaurants, large and small. Every time you come, you will see husband-and-wife operations, a couple from Henan that makes fried egg-filled savoury pancakes. They say that theirs are the best, and the recipe is secret. On the second floor of a building there is another husband-and-wife affair, “Fat Bro’s Noodle Shop”. It’s always packed. A fat husband and skinny wife run a fruit stand which is extremely popular. Happiness is being to lead a simple life with the one you love.
开茶节
The Tea Festival
“茶为国饮,杭为茶都”,作为西湖龙井的故乡,悠久的茶文化历史积淀和浓厚的茶饮习俗氛围使杭州获得了“中国茶都”的美誉。茶文化和茶习俗早已融入了杭州人的血液中,每年一度的西湖龙井开茶节也已经成为所有爱茶人的盛大节日。你爱茶、懂茶吗?如果你也好这一口儿,一定不要错过这个美丽的节日!
“Tea is the national drink, and Hangzhou is the capital of tea”. As the home of West Lake Longjing Tea, a long history of tea culture and a strong preference for the drink among the local population have given Hangzhou the name “China’s Tea Capital”. Tea culture and tea-drinking customs are in the blood of people from Hangzhou, and every year there is a large “tea festival” for the start of the West Lake tea harvesting season. Do you like and understand tea? If this kind of thing is your jam, make sure to not miss out on this beautiful holiday!
翻丝棉大妈
The Women Who Process Silk Floss
每年国庆节一过,来自桐乡的翻丝棉大妈就像候鸟一样准时来到杭州,在老小区的弄堂口、花园旁空地上搭起棚子,戴上老花眼镜开工。不用打任何广告,熟识的老主顾都会带上丝棉袄壳儿,到老地方来找她们。“大妈,今年翻一件丝棉袄多少钞票?”“还是15块!”真是实诚的桐乡大妈,价格十年如一日!
Each year as soon as the National Holiday in early October ends, women who process silk floss from Tongxiang (Tongcheng County in Anhui Province) flock to Hangzhou like migrant birds, and set up small stands on the available ground in various complexes, put on their glasses and prepare to work. They post no ads, but their customers know where to find them. They show up, cocoons in hand, to have them processed. “Old lady, how much is the price this year?” “It’s still 15 Yuan!” These are very honest women – the price hasn’t risen in ten years!
红树醉西泠
Red Leaves at Xiling Bridge
西泠桥,枫树林,秋来霜红雾紫,鲜艳夺目。秋风渐起,午后漫步西泠。和暖的阳光恰好驱散了寒气,举目尽是明艳艳的橙红。在残荷凋零、叶落水寒的萧瑟秋景中,这是一笔浓厚的诗情画意。撷取枫叶把玩手上或压制成书签,把秋天融到书里带回了家,幽情耿耿撩人,别有趣味。
At the Xiling Bridge there is a forest of maple trees, and when autumn turns the leaves red and frost accumulates on the leaves, they are a sign to see. I take a walk at Xiling as the autumn wind blows. Warm sunlight drives away the cold in the air, and the scene is bathed in bright orange-red. The lotuses wilt, leaves fall down – the whole experience feels very poetic. One may pick maple leaves and play with them in hand, or press them into bookmarks, taking a piece of the scene home to keep.
主编供稿
王奶奶的西湖绸伞情缘
The Love Story of Granny Wang and the Silk Umbrella
王奶奶有一把珍藏了五十多年的西湖绸伞,那可是她和王爷爷的定情之物。说起当初与王爷爷因一把西湖绸伞结缘,王奶奶还是一脸害羞:“50年代你王爷爷是国营杭州西湖伞厂的制伞工人,第一次相亲就带了一把他自己亲手制作的西湖绸伞送给我,你说我看到能制作这么精美雨伞的巧手工人能不欢喜吗?”
Granny Wang has a West Lake silk umbrella that she’s used for more than fifty years – it was a courtship gift from Old Mr. Wang. She blushes even now when she sells the story of how Mr. Wang gave her the umbrella. “Your grandfather worked at a state-owned factory making umbrellas in the 1950’s, and the first time that we met on a traditional date, he brought me this West Lake silk umbrella which he’d made himself. How could I not fall in love with him when presented with such a beautiful and exquisitely-made work?”
摄影:丁刘冬
交芦田庄
Jiaolutian Village
交芦田庄位于西溪福堤南入口的西侧,在古色古香的高庄与蜿蜒曲折的溪水围绕下,这片净土自有其农桑耕植的情趣。它是以农事体验为主的农业生态休闲园。在这里,鱼塘密布,男耕女织。在现代化大都市中体验别样的古朴民间农活,未尝不是一件“偷得浮生半日闲”的美事。
Jiaolutian Village is situated on the west side of Fudi (the Embankment of Proseprity) in the West Creek area. It is an antique-looking village that contains a small creek which winds and twists through it, with the soil around it planted with mulberry trees. It’s an ecological park where one can experience agricultural activities. The pools are full of fish. Male residents are responsible for tending the fields and women weave. It’s a great place to take a half-day trip to experience a lifestyle from a simpler time in the middle of the modern city.
创意民宿
Innovative B&B’s
在离杭州市区开车不到半小时的青山绿水间,民宿开始流行。正如回味无穷的私房小菜,民宿主人从传统文化中汲取灵感,白墙黛瓦保留了江南建筑的简朴风格。小而雅致的客房、园林、书房、茶室和宽敞的露台,有的还带有碧波荡漾的小湖。在这里无拘无束地喝茶、聊天、看书,体验山水之间的别样生活。
With lush greenery and nice waterscapes less than a half-hour drive from Hangzhou, staying at Bed and Breakfast has become popular in the area. Amazing food and the chance to experience some local culture in the traditional buildings with white walls and black tile roofs characteristic of this region of China. Here you can relax and enjoy drinking tea, chatting, reading books and experience another kind of lifestyle.
排长队的李记酥鱼
A Fish Shop with a Long Queue
李记家的酥鱼卖二十来年了。李老板曾经在卤味店工作过,学到了很多做菜厨艺,加上他的妻子又有卖酥鱼的经验,夫妻俩索性开起小店卖起酥鱼来了。李老板多年研制的卤酱加上妻子的高汤秘方,正是他们家酥鱼独霸一方的秘诀,四面八方的食客纷至沓来。你看,这节假日,过来吃酥鱼的人排队都排到马路中央去了。
The Li shop has sold crispy fish for more than two decades. Boss Li used to work in a braised food shop, and learned how to cook. His wife had experience selling crispy fish, so the couple went and opened up a store to sell the product. Li used his experience at the braised food shop combined with his wife’s secret soup recipe to produce a new dish, and customers have flooded in constantly. After the holidays if you go by the shop you will see the queue of customers extending all the way into the middle of the street.
摄影:孙宏茂
“三无”餐厅
The Restaurant Lacking Three Things
屏峰社区有一家素食餐厅,位置偏僻但生意红火。老板星星是陕西小伙,笃信佛教,为人爽气,还有一杭州人谢姐是其助手。餐厅食客多为来自五湖四海的打工青年。餐厅特色有三:一无招牌,初访者常以为不是餐厅;二无餐单,顾客随意配菜,老板随心烹制;三无柜员,所有菜价一律十元,由食客自行投钱结算。
In the Pingfeng Community there is a vegetarian restaurant that is a bit out of the way but always does great business. The boss is a guy from Shaanxi. He faithfully follows Buddhism, and is a bright and open-minded person. He has a female assistant who is a native of Hangzhou. Most of the customers at the restaurant are young people coming from all over to Hangzhou to work. The restaurant lacks three things that most others have: First, there is no sign. First time visitors may miss the fact that there is a restaurant operating there. Second, there is no menu, customers pick the vegetables for the boss to cook. Third, there is no till – all dishes are 10 Yuan, and customers retrieve their own change.
吴山庙会
The Wushan Temple Fair
每年的吴山庙会,是杭州人的狂欢节,庙会上人山人海,而丰富多彩的节目和活动,更是让人流连忘返。祭祀巡游、文艺展演、民间艺人表演、卖书画、变戏法耍杂技、卖花斗鸟、特色小吃展卖、逛街购物……在这里,可以体验到老街的市井民俗,重温儿时的美好记忆,感受盛大节日的气氛。不说了,赶快狂欢去吧。
The Wushan Temple Fair is a joyous affair when it comes around each year. The temple is packed with people, and all kinds of programs and activities take place, making it very memorable. There are ceremonies and parades, performances, folk art, calligraphy and painting sales, juggling and conjury, birds and flowers for sale, exhibitions and sales of unique snacks, all kinds of shopping. Here one can experience the customs of the old city, relive childhood memories, and enjoy a festive atmosphere. It is a day of fun that is definitely not to be missed.
热衷游泳
Passion for Swimming
一次听同事高兴地说,她的孩子被学校游泳队选中,课后每天训练5000米。原来,杭州的家长很喜欢孩子游泳,这应该是名人效应。你看,2002釜山亚运会获三项冠军的吴鹏,2004雅典奥运会100米蛙泳金牌得主罗雪娟,乃至近几年的孙杨、叶诗文等中国泳坛的领军者,都是杭州人啊!
I once heard one of my co-workers excitedly exclaim that her child has been selected for the swimming team and was to practice swimming 5,000 metres a day. Parents in Hangzhou very much like their children participating in swimming, due in part to a celebrity effect. The third-time gold medallist at the 2002 Pusan Olympics Wu Peng, the 100 metre frog-stroke gold medallist at the 2004 Athens games Luo Xuejuan, and in recent years Sun Yang, Ye Shiwen, leaders in Chinese swimming, have all come from Hangzhou!
赏桂花
Appreciating Osmanthus Flowers
不知道是九月送来了暗香浮动的桂花,还是桂花带来了凉爽舒适的九月。在初秋的杭城桂花总可以“独占三秋压众芳”。作为杭州的市花,桂花有着富贵的寓意,象征友谊、爱情、荣誉和思念。“满觉陇旁金粟遍,天风吹堕万山丘”,赏桂花的最佳去处就数有着9000多株桂花树的满陇桂雨公园了。
It is hard to say if September brings about the floating fragrance of osmanthus blooms, or if the osmanthus blooms bring about the chilly comfort of September. At the start of autumn in Hangzhou one can always expect the fragrance of osmanthus. As the city flower of Hangzhou, the osmanthus carries connotations of prosperity, friendship, love, honour, and reflection. “Yellow flowers blanket Manjuelong valley, and as the wind blows their fragrance descends upon myriad peaks.” The best place for appreciating these beautiful blossoms is Laurel Park in Manjuelong valley, where over 9,000 osmanthus grow.
运河水上巴士
Travelling on the Canal Bus
三十多年前,道路没有这么发达,从运河沿岸的小镇到杭州最适合的交通工具往往是轮船,小镇居民都希望有一天可以坐公交车去杭州。不曾想到的是,因为交通的便捷而一度被废弃的轮船,现在却成为了运河上一道亮丽的风景。运河水上巴士,为旅游的人们提供了不同的交通工具,也提供了不一样的人文感受。
Thirty years ago, the road system wasn’t as developed, and the preferred mode of transport for those who lived along the banks of the canal to travel from their small villages into Hangzhou was by boat. At the time, the residents of these villages all hoped that one day they would be able to take buses into the city. When this was implemented, the boats were more or less abandoned by the residents, but surprisingly became valued by others for the scenery that could be enjoyed upon them. Now the canal “buses” still run, and travellers choose to take these boats for a different kind of experience.
摄影:施麟麒
心之向往
The Heart’s Direction
来了久了才知道,我所接触到的地道杭州人少之又少。出门坐出租车,司机八成是河南人,做拉面的是新疆人,食堂的小妹是西北人,朋友们更是来自五湖四海……或许“老杭州”从来不像我们这般匆碌,他们会在房檐下沏一壶清茶,和旧友聊几句越乡软语……这倒不是臆测,而是每一个来到这里的人内心里向往的生活。
After being in Hangzhou for a while you will realise how few people are actually natives of the city. When you take a taxi, 4 in 5 of the drivers are from Henan. The makers of hand-pulled noodles are from Xinjiang, the girls working in the cafeterias are from the Northeast of China… there are people from all over here. The “old guard” here isn’t as busy running about. You’ll see them making tea at home, chatting with old friends in the local dialect. Yet one could say that such is the ideal life for everyone coming here.
时尚的广场舞
Fashionable Dance
傍晚去广场散步,远处传来神曲《小苹果》,脑袋里浮现出一群大妈整齐划一地跳着广场舞。慢慢走近,似乎不一样啊,怎么年轻人也在跟着跳,小伙打扮挺潮。只见他们随着音乐有节奏地跳着,步伐轻快,律动和谐,真是把广场舞跳出了民族舞的意思。原来广场舞不是大妈的专属,舞步也不再老套俗气。
When you go to walk around the square at night, you may hear the song “Small Apple” – China’s “Gangnam Style”, if you will. What one would normally picture is a large number of middle-aged women doing a coordinated dance in the square, as is common across China. Yet, when you slowly walk closer, you see that there are also young people in the group, dressed fashionably. As you see them dance to the beat of the music, steps quick, rhythm harmonious, the plaza dance seems more like a folk dance. It turns out that dancing in the public plaza is no longer the exclusive domain of old ladies, and is actually becoming fashionable.
摄影:王建华
摄影:董思聪
千变杭州
Ever-Changing Hangzhou
一分钟前还是大都会里的琳琅满目,转过一个街角又变成了古色古香的红砖墙与青石路。之前还在踩着山间泥路上的青苔碎石,翻过一个山头又钻入了一方失修的古亭,坐在老式的方木墩上鉴赏亭心驻着的石碑。在杭州城里漫步,永远别去猜下一站你会遇到什么风景,因为它有千万张脸谱,谁也不知道它下一秒想为你展示些什么。
In a minute you can go from the dazzling metropolis, and taking a turn around a corner, you’ll be in an ancient-feeling scene of red brick walls and green stone roads. You might be walking over a mud road in the mountains, and green-moss covered cobblestone streets, and after cresting a peak, come upon a dilapidated old pagoda. Sitting on a traditional wooden bench, you can see a stone stele that evokes strong emotions upon looking at it. Taking a walk around Hangzhou, you never know what scenery you might come upon next, because it’s a city of a thousand faces. Who knows what the next moment may bring about?
浣纱溪的遗憾
The Sad Story of Huansha Creek
每次经过浣纱路总会联想起词牌名浣溪沙,这么诗意的名字,一定会有浪漫的过去吧。询问浣纱路上一位坐馆老中医,言谈间颇多遗憾:“浣纱路原为浣纱溪填平而成。旧时浣纱溪自涌金桥下引入西湖水,流往市区主要做饮用水。溪两旁柳荫夹道,溪水清澈见底,岸旁埠头女人们的捣衣声说笑声,别是一种风土人情哦。”
Every time I go down Huansha Road I always think of a traditional Chinese tune name, Huanxisha – such a poetic name, it must have a romantic past. I asked a doctor of Chinese medicine about it, and he said with lament: “Huansha Road is the filled-in bed of Huansha Creek. In the old times Huansha Creek flowed from Yongjin Bridge into the West Lake, and was mainly used as a source of drinking water for the city. It was lined with willows, and the water was clear. You could hear the sound of women laughing as they washed clothes. It was really something.”
放心
Relax
有一次逛商场,看到一些年轻人在做兼职,装载App就附送小礼物。一名少妇的机型特殊,兼职的小哥弄了半天也搞不好,她就直接把手机塞到小哥手里,然后就拉着同伴扎进了商场。我吃过午饭出来,刚巧看见她出来取手机,一切理所应当的样子。我不禁纳闷,到底是媒体夸大了社会的不诚信,还是杭州这座城市,是个特例呢?
There was one time that I was at a mall, and saw a young part-time worker giving away small gifs to those who installed an app on their smartphones. A young woman had an unusual phone, and the young part-timer wasn’t making any progress. She put the phone in his hand, and pulled her friend away with her to go shopping. After I ate lunch and came out, I happened to see the girl getting her phone back from the young man as if this was perfectly normal. I couldn’t help but wonder, is it that the mass media has amplified concerns about dishonesty, or that this is a special characteristic of Hangzhou?
安宁的模样
Models of Calm
每一百个杭州人中就有十七个老人。他们不紧不慢,为这座城市虚掩上浮华的门。晨雾朦胧,他们在林间唱起遥远的歌谣。雨打红桃,他们蘸着西湖水在青石板上随性挥毫。在江南潮湿的阳光下,他们任凭时光从肩头流过,自提鸟笼,落下一地啼鸣的芬芳。他们拥着最朴素的生活和最美好的梦想,那是杭州最安宁的模样。
17% of Hangzhou’s native population is elderly. They are calm and cool, as flash and ostentation isn’t part of Hangzhou’s culture. In the mists of the morning, the sound of them singing traditional songs flows throughout the forest. When the rain falls upon the red peach blossoms, they write with brushes dipping with water of the West Lake on the green stones. In the moist air under the bright sun, they walk around, carrying birdcages and from which emanate all kinds of chirping sounds. They live simple and beautiful lives – they are the models of calm.
摄影:金炫辰
服装第一街
The Street for Clothing
第一次走过四季青服装市场一定会被震到:满街的人,人行天桥上是人,往下走的露天过街地道是人,马路两边、马路中央都是人。各人不是提着各色大小包袋,就是推着各式大小拉车:平板的,有俩大轮子的;简易的,带俩小轮的,等等。车上载满包包袋袋,包袋里塞满各式衣裳……这里不愧是中国服装第一街。
I was startled the first time I walked by the Sijiqing Clothing Street – there were people everywhere, with people packing the pedestrian bridges, and underground passages. There were people on both sides and in the centre of the street. If people weren’t carrying bags and purses, they were pushing all kinds of carts, large and small: flat-back with two large wheels, simple with two small wheels, and so on. The carts were all packed with bags and packages, inside them all manner of clothes. This may be the street with the most clothes in all China.
摄影:王杰于
夏天到,蝈蝈儿叫
Crickets in the Summer
夏天一到,河北卖蝈蝈儿的农民总会运大量蝈蝈儿来杭城叫卖。他们用自行车装着很多的蝈蝈儿笼沿街溜达,蝈蝈儿响亮的歌唱声自然引来许多市民。酷热难挨的夏天,午休时听着挂在阳台上蝈蝈儿的鸣唱,会朦胧觉得自己来到了清凉的深山老林中,然后迷迷糊糊打个瞌睡。夏天就这样在蝈蝈儿陪伴的惬意慵懒中过去。
When summer arrives, rural cricket-sellers from Hebei Province come in large numbers with larger numbers of crickets to Hangzhou. They ride bikes that have many cricket cages hanging from them, and the sound of their chirping brings many customers to the market. During the very hot summer days, you can hear the sound of these crickets chirping in their cages hung upon the balcony, and hazily imagine that you are in a cool forest deep in the mountains as you drift off to sleep. This is how crickets make pleasant companions on an indolent summer day.
小酒吧老板
The Boss of a Small Bar
阿敏经营着一家小酒吧,店面不大,却温馨有情调。杭城有许多这类很像家庭客厅风格的小酒吧,适合熟人朋友小聚。这个酒吧阿敏经营了十年,不管经济危机、金融风暴,它都不温不火地存在,让阿敏衣食无忧。阿敏说,她喜欢这种生活状态,赚不了大钱,但也没有压力。这很符合很多杭州人的生活观念:知足常乐。
A-Min runs a bar which is small but warm and colourful. Hangzhou has a number of these small bars that resemble restaurants operated out of a home that are suitable for small gatherings of friends. She’s run the bar for a decade already, pushing on through the financial crisis with stable business. She says she likes this kind of lifestyle – it may not be hugely profitable, but it’s stress free. This conforms well with the outlook on life that Hangzhou people have – be happy with what you have.
美丽校园
A Beautiful Campus
浙江科技学院坐落在城西小和山脚下。校园里有山有湖,真山真水,风光旖旎,不输给任何风景区。坐落在杭州的很多高等院校,得益于杭州得天独厚的自然条件,校园就像一座座公园。难怪有许多外国留学生来到杭州留学以后,就希望能留下来,一直生活在杭州。
The Zhejiang University of Science and Technlogy is situated at the base of Mount Xiaohe in the west of the city. The campus has lakes, real mountains and streams, and charming and gentle scenery that rivals that of any scenic area. Universities in Hangzhou enjoy excellent natural conditions with the campuses resembling parks. It’s no wonder that students from abroad who come to study here fall in love with the campus and wish to remain in Hangzhou.
摄影:林杰
小区绿化
Greenery in Compounds
杭州小区的绿化水准在中国各大城市中绝对是一流的。大部分小区干道两旁都均匀地种着香樟、桂花之类的树木,杂以其他树种,品类繁多。三春时分,樱花飞舞,桃花斗艳;酷夏之际,凌霄满墙,枇杷压枝;金秋时节,桂花飘香,银杏泛黄;寒冬来临,松柏迎风,墨菊呈祥。每个小区,都是一座花园。
The greenery in housing compounds in Hangzhou is definitely first-rate among large-scale cities nationwide. Most of the small roads in these compounds are lined with camphor, osmanthus, and other trees of many different varieties. In the spring, cherry petals fly about and peaches boom. In the summer, the Chinese trumpet creeper covers the walls all about, and loquats hang from the branches. In the autumn, the smell of sweet osmanthus is about and the gingko turn yellow. In the winter, pine trees greet the wind, and black chrysanthemum make an appearance. Every housing community is a garden.
摄影:程永艳
学院路夜市
Xueyuan Road Night Market
城西的老居民都知道当年的学院路夜市。华灯初上,文一路、学院路口北行,总是热闹非凡。南来北往的小贩、一脸悠闲的市民、青春活泼的大学生、五花八门的廉价商品,到处都是生活的味道。当然,很多人来夜市转转,都是慕文教区美女如云之名而来。如今夜市搬迁,怀旧之人难免平添些许感叹。
The old residents of the western part of the city all remember the Xueyuan Road Night Market of years past. Under bright streetlamps, at Wenyi Road at the north entrance of Xueyuan Road, it was always a bustling affair. Merchants from all over, city-dwellers with relaxed looks on their faces, energetic university students, and all kinds of low-priced articles for sale – there was a feeling of vibrancy throughout. Of course, many of the people who came were there to see the famous beauties of Cultural District. As the market has now been relocated, it’s no surprise that many people sigh nostalgically about the old memories.
堵城的交通
A Congested City
杭州的交通相当发达。地下有地铁和隧道;地面东西和南北都有交通要道;还有贯通南北和东西的高架快速道。设立了公交专用通道,配以足够的出租车,还配备了公共自行车。既有水上交通,也有绕城高速,加之以高铁和杭州萧山国际机场。然而,城市人口的剧增和中国人均第一的私家车数,却使杭州成了有名的“堵城”。
Hangzhou’s transportation infrastructure is well-developed. There is a subway and underground passages beneath the surface, and upon it there are bus routes running in every direction. There are also elevated carriageways that run throughout the city. There is a bus lane network and adequate taxis. There are also public bicycles available. There are ferries on the waterways, and an expressway that bypasses the city. There is the new high-speed rail, and Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport. However, added to the rapidly expanding population and highest rate of private car ownership in the nation, the city is still very congested.
喜“闲”的杭州人
Leisure-Loving Hangzhou
对于很多道地的杭州本地人来讲,“闲”对他们至关重要。或许因为得天独厚的青山秀水,他们与生俱来一种淡淡的满足感,喜欢温和中庸,不喜恶语相向,玩到虚脱的事是绝对不干的。闲暇时喜欢逛逛西湖游游公园,看看花喝喝茶,打打牌搓搓麻将。难怪丰子恺会在《吃酒》一文里说“闲”是杭州人最佳的性格写照了。
For real Hangzhou people, “relaxation” is a key concept. Possibly because of the surrounding beautiful landscapes, everyone has a kind of relaxed satisfaction with life, and enjoys a moderate, friendly lifestyle, eschewing harsh words and conflict. Nobody “parties hardy” here. Popular activities for free time are walking around the West Lake, admiring flowers and drinking tea, playing cards and mah-jong. It’s no surprise that in his book Drinking, the early 20th century author Feng Zikai said that “leisure” was the true mark of a Hangzhou person’s character.
摄影:程永艳
适宜散步的城市
A Good City for Walking
沿着钱江,顺着运河,绕行西湖,漫步湿地,想到卢梭《一个散步者的遐想》,充分说明了散步的哲学功能。散步不仅锻炼身体,灵感也会如电光火石般迸发出来。“水光潋滟晴方好,山色空蒙雨亦奇;欲把西湖比西子,淡妆浓抹总相宜。”这几句美轮美奂的诗句,一定是苏轼在西湖边散步时突然从头脑中迸发出来的。
Along the Qianjiang River, down the canal, about the West Lake, walking in the wetlands makes one think of Jean-Jacques Rosseau’s Reveries of the Solitary Walker. Walking not only is good for your health, it tones your senses, and provides flashes of inspiration. Su Shi must have thought of the lines of his famous poem when walking along the lake. “The brimming waves delight the eye on sunny days. The dimming hills give a rare view in rainy haze. The West Lake looks like the fair lady Xi Shi at her best, whether she is richly adorned or plainly dressed.”
主编供稿
杭城小弄堂
Alleyways in Hangzhou
杭州是个现代气息和古典文艺相结合的城市,在车水马龙宽敞的马路背后还有蜿蜒曲折不为人知的小弄堂。杭州人真的很幸福,早上起来就可以在弄堂的拐角处喝一碗热腾腾的豆浆,抬起头就可以跟楼上敞开了窗户浇花的老大爷唠家常,身边会经过一群你追我赶上学校的孩子们,脚下躺着一只眯着眼睛晒着太阳的流浪猫。
Hangzhou is a city that blends the flavour of modern lifestyles with the traditions of times past, with large roads carrying large numbers of large vehicles, and small winding alleyways existing unknown to many. The people of Hangzhou are truly lucky. One can wake up in the morning and stroll through the alleyways drinking a hot bowl of soy milk, look upward to see an old man talking idly as he waters the plants outside of his window, pass a group of hurrying school children, and look down to see a lazy stray cat warming itself in the sun.
火柿映西溪
Fiery Persimmons at the West Creek
柿子树,被誉为“长寿树”,寓意吉祥。金风乍起,火柿盈枝。收获时节,每年西溪都会在此举办“火柿节”。秋高气爽,芦花盛开,西溪水岸,火红的柿子高挂枝头,与美绝的晚霞相映成趣。乘兴而来的人们热热闹闹地采摘着柿子,品尝着甜腻,欣赏着“千树明霞笼柿果,一溪金阳隐芦花”的美景,好不惬意。
The persimmon tree is also known as the “tree of longevity” and has auspicious connotations. When the golden winds blow, the branches are covered in fiery fruit. At harvest time each year, there is a “fiery fruit” festival in the West Creek area. The autumn air is fragrant and the reed catkins are all about as the persimmons decorate the banks of the West Creek, bathed in the warm light of sunset. People in high spirits happily pick the fruit, enjoying sampling the sweet flavour – these scenes are well-known from depictions in classical literature.
摄影:梅莹
热心红娘伍大姐
Lady Wu, a Matchmaker
伍大姐是杭城著名的热心红娘,为了给杭城的大龄男女青年牵线搭桥,她不仅开通了博客,而且还建立了两个千人QQ群,贴财贴力为他们服务牵红线。三年多时间已经成功让几十位男女喜结良缘。每周伍大姐都会为群里的姑娘小伙们找一个不同的聚会场所,相互增进了解。你身边有找不到对象的人吗?快找伍大姐去。
Lady Wu is a famous matchmaker in Hangzhou, and in order to help older single youths in the city find companions, she’s set up a microblog, as well as two QQ chat groups of more than 2,000 people. She’s hooking people up left and right. In just over three years she’s made dozens of matches happen. Every week she organises an activity for young men and women to meet and get to know each other in a different location. If you’re looking for a partner, you should go to her.
爱心凉茶摊
Friendly with Cold Tea
每逢酷暑,大大小小几十处免费爱心凉茶摊就会默默出现在杭城大街小巷,为路过的人们送上一份清凉。“我们茶摊由14位平均年龄超过60岁的老人轮流值守,两人一班,就想发挥点余热,做点有意义的事。”面对赞扬,江干区濮家新村爱心凉茶摊发起人、义务摆摊13年的王惠玲老人淡淡地说。
When the notoriously hot summers of Hangzhou roll around, a few dozen stands are quietly set up, small and large, on the large streets and narrow alleyways of the city. They give out a cup of cool tea for free to the passers-by. “Our tea stands are manned by 14 volunteers with an average age of 60, two people per shift. We just wanted to do something nice for other people” – Wang Huiling explains simply how he started the first tea stand in Pujia New Village in Jianggan District 13 years ago, in response to praise from others.
林荫隧道
The Shady Tunnel
在火车站随意搭上了去灵隐寺的公交车。了解一座城,从坐公交开始。听着站名,看着窗外,还有专门的司机带你去你想去的地方,这也是一种极好的享受。绕过西湖,进入了那段令我印象深刻的悠长的森林隧道。两旁树木高大,枝繁叶茂,树枝在高高的上空交叉,不留空隙。杭州市民是幸福的,在如此天然氧吧,连散步都很有格调。
From the train station I took a bus on a whim to Lingyin Temple. To understand a city, you can start with its transit network. When I heard the station name, looking out the window, I saw drivers waiting to take me wherever I wanted to go, and felt great. Around the West Lake, through the forest tunnel that left me with such a strong impression. On either side there were tall trees covered in green leaves. The branches intertwined, not leaving any space. The people of Hangzhou are lucky to have this natural source of oxygen and excellent backdrop for taking walks.
摄影:李选
钢镚儿找零
Coins
在杭州每次付钱找零都是给硬币,初来时不太适应,在北方钢镚儿是很少被使用的。后来了解到从1992年起,银行在个别城市开展试点,逐步实行壹元以下小面额货币单一投入硬币,使杭州率先实现了小面额货币的硬币化,所以,如果你来杭州旅行,记得准备好钱袋来装零散的钢镚儿。
Whenever you get small change in Hangzhou it will be coins. Outsiders might not be accustomed to it, as coins are rarely used to make change in the north of China. As the result of a program by the central bank started in 1992, for amounts of 1 Yuan and less, Hangzhou as more of less moved entirely to coins. Thus, when you visit Hangzhou, remember to bring a coin purse.
摄影:俞洋
孝道文化
A Culture of Filial Piety
杭州首家“孝道文化展示体验馆”,位于皋亭山景区千桃园内,分为孝廉广场、文化长廊等展示区域。它以丁兰故事为创作主线,通过动态展示、互动参与孝道艺术文化等方式,展示中华孝文化发展史以及新老二十四孝的故事,突出杭州本土孝文化遗迹及民间的孝文化内容。周末就带上你的孩子去体验吧!
Hangzhou’s first “Cultural Experience Centre for the Confucian Doctrine of Filial Piety” is situated in the Peach Garden of the Mount Gaoting Scenic Area, and is divided into the Piet Plaza, Cultural Corridor and exhibition area. It centres around the story of Ding Lan as its main theme, and through a dynamic display and interactive cultural exhibits show the history of the development of the culture of filial piety and the old and new stories of the Twenty-four Filial Exemplars, showing the local cultural heritages and the cultural content of the concept filial piety among the local people. This is a great place to bring your child on the weekend!
现代化城市建设
Modernising Urban Construction
2014年开始,杭州比以往更大力度地建设人行过街设施,包括天桥和地道。其他各大路口的天桥作用固然十分重要,但令人感受最深的莫过于医院门前的天桥了,且基本上都配备了电动扶梯。以往每每看到老弱病残患者在医院前的人行道上匆忙地赶着绿灯时,都会有种莫名的着急和担忧。我想以人为本便是如此吧。
At the start of 2014, Hangzhou entered into a new large-scale round of road construction, including that of pedestrian bridges and underground passages. The bridges at major intersections are still very important, but one of the most impressive is most of bridges in front of hospitals are outfitted with escalators. Old and weak hospital patrons previously had to wait nervously at a red light, but this kind of human-centric thinking has now provided them with facilities that allow them to avoid this discomfort.
虎跑泉趣事
The Story of Running Tiger Spring
虎跑泉水是上天的恩赐,和龙井茶是绝配,大伯大妈们凭着公园卡,提着大桶小桶,耐心地在一眼泉水前,排上两三小时的队。忽见一位排队的大伯,从容地拿着一个橘子,边剥边慢慢品尝,润喉、滋养、洗肺、消磨时光,都有了。再回家泡一壶龙井,听着越剧,嗑着瓜子,享受休闲时光。
Running Tiger Spring is a gift from heaven, which is matched with Longjing Tea. Old men and women, park passes in hands, carrying small buckets queue up in groups of two or three in front of the spring. I see an old man take out an orange and peel it. It looks sweet, juicy and healthy. It’s a good day to go home, make a pot of Longjing Tea, listen to an opera, crack sunflower seeds and enjoy some leisure time.
摄影:董思聪
免费凉茶
Free Cold Tea
夏季来杭州旅游,不难发现街边或者西湖边的免费凉茶摊。西湖边固然凉快,杭州的夏天却是酷暑难当,这时突然发现一个凉茶摊,不失为杭州给人的又一惊喜。凉茶一般是径山茶,喝上去很是解暑。
Travelling in Hangzhou during the summer, it’s not hard to find stands at the West Lake or along the streets giving out free cold tea. Whilst it may be cooler along the West Lake, Hangzhou’s summers are notoriously hot, and happening to find some free cold tea is a very nice surprise the city presents you with. The tea is normally Jingshan tea, which is said to have a cooling effect.
城区
The City Area
杭州有五个老城区,还有滨江等五个新秀。上城区是南宋皇城所在地,下城区是以武林广场为核心的市中心,江干区定位是新的中心城区,CBD钱江新城就在此。西湖区是旅游文教中心,拱墅区以前是工业基地,现在运河申遗成功,成为一张金名片。滨江区高新技术产业云集,有阿里、网易、三星、西门子、ABB等。
Hangzhou has five old districts, and five up-and-coming districts. Shangcheng District has the ruins of the residence of the Song Dynasty Emperors, Xiacheng District has Wulin Plaza as its centre. Jianggan District is the new city centre and home to the central business district. Xihu District is the centre of tourism and education, Gongshu District was once an industrial centre, and is seeking to have the Grand Canal recognised as a World Cultural Heritage Site. Binjiang District is an area where high-tech enterprises exist, such as Alibaba, Netease, Samsung, Siemens, and ABB.
摄影:俞燕君